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LOCAL COOKING & WINE TASTING BY SAINT PETER’S ISLAND
QUALITY AND  AUTHENTICITY: Four cooking school labs and four wine tasking sessions in six calm & friendly days
 
 
 

ANDREA MARIO NICOLO SECONDO and DINO organise

THE LOCAL COOKING & WINE TASTING TEP (Thematic Experiential Path) of
CARLOFORTEXPERIENCES :

 
   
  
Ligurian, Mediterranean, and North African cooking traditions have been intertwined over time and were retained by the refugees Tabarkini, obviously tailored to the new food resources that were on the island.

 

 

 

The Arab influence is felt in ‘cashcà’, variant of couscous made of semolina cooked with steam and enriched with separately cooked vegetables. Still preparing ‘maccaruin’, macaroni that were once served as a first course in weddings, the ‘stocafisso’ (stockfish)  Tabarkina style, the ‘cassolla’, soup of various types of fish and shellfish in a condensed sauce, with oil, tomatoes, parsley and garlic.

Of note for its simplicity, the ‘cappunnadda’, poor dish once used by sailors during long time sailings, based on ‘gallette’ (a sort of home made bread crackers) softened in water and seasoned with oil, vinegar, tomatoes and ‘tunnina’ (salted tuna). Ligurian influence is seen in the ‘farinata’, made of chickpea flour, water and oil cooked in the oven, can be tasted in most of the local pizzerias. Among the sweets are the ‘panetti’ with figs, the ‘giggeri’ and ‘caneshtrelli’.

The king of the list is the tuna that is caught in local traps, the ‘tonnara’, and consumed in all variations. Almost nothing is wasted  of the tuna fish meat. ‘Bottarga’ (salted egg), the ‘musciamme’ (fillet), the heart and all internal organs are worked by the skilled hands of ‘tonnarotti’ craftsmen, subject to the most ancient traditions. Clever restaurants on the island have the merit of having been able to respect the tradition and have taken inspiration from it to enrich it by developing new dishes, especially fish-based ones.

Great part of the following text and some of the pictures have been taken, with kind permission from authors and publisher, directly from an outstanding essay by traditional cuisine expert Sergio Rossi, an essay enriched with extended inserts by Tabarkina tradition expert Nicolo Capriata, published on the web site www.civiltaforchetta.it.

Sergio Rossi:

“ … Today I come back to Tabarchina cuisine, to propose some pieces written by a lover of history and traditions Tabarchine, who is also a a dear friend. Nicolo Capriata, a former teacher of the Nautical Institute of Carloforte, prepared these notes on the occasion of the feast of the cashcà…”

His Majesty the cashcà

"The cuisine of a society is the language in which it unconsciously translates its structure" wrote Claude Levi-Strauss. You almost think that when the great French anthropologist expressed this concept , his thought was to Carloforte. Because it is difficult to find a community like the Carlofortina one, whose original kitchen is the faithful reflection of historical events, the work experience and socio-economic development that have characterized them. It is in this, and this context that the cashcà has become Tabarchino and it is the leader and symbol dish of whole island cuisine.
First, because the cashcà is a dish that reminds the history of the the ancestors of Carlofortini: a small team of intrepid ligurians that around 1540 were transferred to Tabarca, a small island off the coast of Tunisia, in order to engage in fishing coral. During their stay in the land of Africa, which lasted almost two centuries, they assimilated the art of cooking the kuskus, and when they moved on to St. Peter’s island to found Carloforte (1738), they passed it on to future generations.
Second, because the preparation of cashcà requires gestures, almost rituals, which have been transmitted from mothers to daughters. As the action of ‘ariundiò a sémmua’, that is to work the flour, with the hand that moves in a circular motion keeping the fingers slightly open and the palm raised, in order to avoid sticking together in clusters and moistening it occasionally with water and then dipping it in oil before cooking it in steam.
There is still to be added that the cashcà Tabarchino, in accordance with its Maghreb origins, is a convivial and festive dish, and this is one of the reasons for which it is prepared in abundant quantity: its consumption is often extended to all "enlarged" family members (grandparents, uncles, cousins, etc.).
Last but not least, to make the cashcà the sovereign, dish or at least the primus inter pares, of the rich and distinctive cuisine Carlofortina, it is its exquisite taste that makes it a delight for the palate.”

Not only cashcà

“If the cashcà is the king of Carlofortina cuisine, it is a king surrounded by noble dishes just as peculiar, just as tasty. Surely at its court a place of great dignitary is for tuna fish, prepared by Carlofortini with simple and ancient processes, and cooked in a thousand ways and with a thousand sauces. But many food dishes and accompanying dishes claim to have the same blazon original, often exclusive of the island cuisine. Here are just a small sample (to list them all it would not suffice a treaty) of these tasty singularities that contribute to making Carloforte a real paradise for gourmets.
‘Bobba’ – It is a traditional Tabarchina soup made of dried beans. Put to soak the dried beans already shelled, then bring them to cook over low heat. During the cooking you add a piece of potato or cauliflower and a few cloves of pressed garlic, all seasoned with olive oil. The resultant soup is creamy but not too dense, by a characteristic and inimitable taste.
‘Canestréllu’ – It is the cake par excellence of Carlofortini. It consists of a mixture of flour, lard, sugar, egg yolk, yeast and vanilina. Canestrelli have a donut shape and cook in the oven. At the end of the cooking they are coated with a glaze (hood) on a base of battered egg white.
‘Fainò’ – In this way is called the Tabarchina ‘farinata’, a typically Genoese dish, the legacy of ancient origin, consumed a lot at Carloforte. It consists of chickpea flour well mixed with water, oil and refined salt. The dough is fitted into trays, preferably round, and it is put in gthe oven for about fifteen minutes.
‘Galétta’ – may be regarded as the bread of the sailors. Their baking comes from the tradition of ligurian seafarers. The galétta are prepared with flour, water, salt, yeast and lard. They are  cooked twice to better biscuit them, and they are prepared in round form, about the size of a CD and not thicker than 1 cm. You can keep them aside even for a couple of months, and then just soak them before you consume them.
‘Facussa’ – This is a thin, elongated cucumber (30-40 cm), curved and twisted, typical of Maghreb, whose seeds were brought to Carloforte by Tabarchini settlers and transplanted in the island gardens. The Facussa, from fakûs, has a fresh and delicate flavor, it is a common ingredient of summer salads mainly based on tuna but the vegetable is also eaten alone as a fruit.”

The recipe of cashcà

“But how do you prepare your cashcà? Before answering we need a foreword. Like all recipes, that of cashcà for the variety of its ingredients lends itself easily to different variants often created almost at the moment by the person that is cooking. However these are small differences that do not subvert the essence of the original recipe. If anything, the main differences are due to the vegetables used as condiments that vary depending on the season, thus leading to a distinction between winter cashcà and spring / summer cashcà (a distinctive feature of present times, vegetables are now available in every season, so that the season is no longer used as a marker, as it was to be used once), and on the eventual use of meat in its seasoning. In any case, the basic food preparation, the most important (and also the less easy) addition contributing to the creation of the dish, is always the same.
In fact, the ‘semola’ flour must be moistened with water and, while adding salt, moved and mixed continuously with the fingers of one hand, performing rotatory movements in the same direction to avoid clustering. When the flour is well moistened you transfer it to a container in which continuing the rotatory maneuvers of the hand, oil is slowly added. Meanwhile, you sprinkle it with ‘saporita’ (a home made flavor base) to savory it adding a little aromatic flavor. Completed this operation, the flour is placed in the ‘cuscussiera’, which is laid over a pot containing boiling water, a cauliflower and a cabbage. The contact between the two containers is sealed, to prevent the waste of steam, with a mixture of water and flour (the method is very old: it was certainly already in use in the thirteenth century). After about two hours of "fire" the flour, mixed from time to time, is ready to receive condiments, that were prepared previously and separately. If it is winter, the cashcà condiment is made from soaked and pre-boiled chickpeas with cloves of garlic. Apart are browned with abundant onions, strips of cabbage, and carrots cut into cubes, and pieces of meat (if  meat is used), usually pork meat, that some mix in the flour during cooking, while others set the meat into the boiling water of the pot that hosts the cuscussiera. The ‘semola’ flour is then seasoned with the hot vegetables and again with the fragrant ‘saporita’. One trick is to dress the flour in subsequent phases, to allow the flour to absorb better the different flavors. Before serving it on the table, let it rest for a couple of hours.
In the spring / summer version of Cashcà, besides the boiled chickpeas, always present, of course, the vegetables change. First, brown with onions, garlic, and parsley, the peas, the artichokes and fresh ‘fava’ beans, and zucchini; than on the side brown with onions and boil in water with browned onions a cauliflower, and also aside cut eggplants into cubes, and fry them. Then proceed slowly to the dressing of the ‘semola’ flour.”

 

 

 
 
Carlofortina cuisine is no doubt one of the strongholds of the local culture, and it represents one of the prime traits in the definition of the identity of this peculiar territory. A reality of restoration represents i  a fair way this culture, respectful of traditions and mindful of its innovations. The forming of these masters has the same origine: the home kitchen, where mathrers, grandmothers, ‘lalle’ (ants) daily performed the actions of preparing food.
Through this experiment, the possibility is provided to participating guest travelers spending their time on our island in this TEP, to meet and get to know this reality that with daily work ha given birth toa great cuisine tradition.
Here is a brief list of the activities of the cosy Tabarkino cooking school and wine testing workshop TEP, organised by Chefs Nicolo, Paola, Andrea and Secondo, and Sommellier Dino:
Monday: 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s First wine tasting session at ”Osteria della Tonnara”.
Tuesday: Purchases at the market for the laboratory "cascà" with Chef Paola Vitiello. 15:30 Start of "cascà" laboratory at top Restaurant Chez Paola at ‘1° Maggio ‘.
Wednesday: Purchases at the market for the laboratory "pasta al pesto" with Chef Nicolo Pomata.  15:30 Start laboratory "pasta al pesto" at top restaurant Chez Nicolo Pomata at ‘Nico Bistrot’. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Second wine tasting session at Hotel ‘le Terrazze.
Thursday: Purchases at the market for the laboratory "tonno alla carlofortina" with Chef Andrea Rosso. 15:30 Start laboratory "tonno alla carlofortina ‘at the top Restaurant’ Osteria della Tonnara ‘. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Third wine tasting session at Hotel ‘le Terrazze’.
Friday: 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Fourth wine tasting session at Restaurant ‘Belalugosi’ Saturday: Purchases at the market for the laboratory "tonno salato" with Chef Secondo Borghero. 15:30 Laboratory “tonno salato”  at top Restaurant Chez Secondo Borghero at  ‘Tonno di Corsa’
Dinner always together with the chef and the cultural mediators.
 
The ‘belu’ by Secondo Borghero

 

 

 

The Tabarkino cuisine is a cuisine of the sea. The sea is a crossroads of people and cultures. Then we can say that ours is a cuisine of contamination. Tuna is a significant symbol of the island cuisine, we still practice ‘tonnara’ tuna fishing traps.
The dish that I chose for this experience is the "belu", namely the stomach of tuna, a kind of dried tripe.The choice has two motivations:
a) The typicality of the product: a tuna of about 100 kg. It has a fresh belu which weighs 1.5 kg. The form is that of a bag, that is opened, salted and then dried (dehydrated) for about 50-60 days. Ready to be stored 2-3 months.
b) The seasonality. The best time to use belu is the autumn. Before you start cooking it, the dried tripe should be rehydrated (put to soak in water for at least 36 hours) then it should be boiled for about 30 minutes,  cooled and cut into strips the width of a centimeter.
Prepare a cooking base with chopped onion, diced tomato and olive oil. Make everything wilt slowly, add the cut belu, cook gently for 15 minutes, Smooth in a glass of white wine   and add the potatoes, previously boiled ‘al dente’ and cut into large slices. Put aside  for about 30 minutes and serve. 
The meaning of this dish is the demonstration of how a sea cuisine is linked to the land (potatoes, tomatoes, onions) and as a product, biologically kept aside, reinvents its peculiarities of taste.

The vegetables "cashcà” by Paola Vitiello

Some also call it kuskus, or couscous, but in the carlofortino dialectiy  is called cashcà. It is a variant of the ancient plate of Tunisian origin, based on semolina cooked with steam and enriched with cooked separately vegetables. It dates to the period in which Carlofortini still resided on the island of Tabarka in Tunisia. It needs a cooking tool, the ‘cuscussiera’.
We shall meet meet at the "statue" (Carlo Emanuele III di Savoia) in the village in frony of the harbor. We shall walk together through the small roads of the old town to buy vegetables for the cashcà, selecting certain vegetables rather than others pn the base of the season. During preparations, work table will be positioned so that guests may face those who show how to carry out the work and see how to perform the various steps on the table, for cutting vegetables and "arrundiò" semolina (  to work the flour "round" with circular movements of the hand: it is the same ord that is used to refer to the modality of working with semolina, and to indicate when you want to circumvent, "fregare" a person).
In the cooking action, each participant will receive an apron. It starts with the working of  the flour with water, and then with oil, so as to create small balls (lumps), adding salt and pepper and savory.
The worked semola will be put at the top part of the cuscussiera and placed on the fire, above the pot full of water, brought to the boil, it will be steam cooked, stirred from time to time it to make it cook evenly.
Not always the top part of the cuscussiera (terracotta colander) the and metal pot do seal perfectly. The ingenuity of the (female) cooks gave birth to a natural sealant, that is a mixture of flour and water placed between the aluminum pan and terracotta colander sealed the tool and let the steam cooking more effective and fast, without "spifferi" (astray steam).

Fresh pasta and pesto by Nicolo Pomata

"fresh pasta with pesto" or, said  carlofortina style, "cursetti (orecchiette) e maccaruin (macaroni) al pesto."
Description of the ingredients. Pesto: type of basil, of pine nuts, of cheese used. Pasta: the wide variety of flour mixes, possibly “all’uovo” (with egg).
Description of the instruments. Pesto: mortar, origins and characteristics. Pasta: “mattarello”, “serneggiu” the various forms for “le ripiene” and the hands.
Preparation of pesto: collecting pinecones, shelleing pine nuts (each guest with her/his mortar).
Preparation of the dough (her/his own dough each). Two types of pasta into two groups.
Opportunity to watch the cooking of the dough with the collective pan leap (executed in turn). Diary for recipes with photos and audiovisual material.

The tuna of Madda (Maddalena Rosso): roasted tuna Tabarkina style by Andrea Rosso

For centuries the island of San Pietro has been the background of a bloody, but evocative, rite, spectacular in its representation of the struggle between man and the sea: “la mattanza” (the killing) of the tuna.  Witness of an ancient, still present culture. They call it the "red gold" of Carloforte, it is the thynnus tuna (or blue fin), most commonly red tuna. You can not say that you have eaten the true tuna if you have never tasted the one of Carloforte. For this reason I would like to offer the tourist the opportunity to taste the tuna roasted Tabarkina style.
Cut some fresh tuna into slices, preferably the tail part called “codella”, Wash it, dry it well, then fry it in abundant oil. Pour olive oil into a large pan, lay on the top of it the fried tuna, with a couple of cloves of garlic and wait for them to become golden. Then pour a glass of white wine and when it is evaporated add the tomatoes cut into cubes, salt, bay leaves, two cups of water and cook for 20 minutes until the water is entirely consumed. When cooked, sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and let consume on high flame, before serving it really hot.
 
DINO’S HARMONY OF WINE FOOD COUPLING FOR SARDINIA’S AUTOCTON GRAPES


Schema of the wine tasting. It is based on four types of wine, presented in four differnet tasting sessions:
- Cannonau from Central Sardinia
- Carignano from South Western Sardinia (Sulcis Iglesiente)
- Vermentino from Northern Sardinia (Gallura)
- Nuragus from Central Sardinia (Campidano)
Wines will be presented with accompanying text. The four different  DOC wines will be introduced, along with their area of production, the specifications that governs its composition, the dominant grape (Carignan, Vermentino, Nuragus, Cannonau), and organoleptic characteristics. Participants will also perform “bind”  tasting, and be invited to recognize the wines.
The wines will be offered to be tasted in conjunction with foods that are appropriate or not appropriate match, for better understanding characteristics and differences. Combinations:
Cannonau: sheep meat – velvet beans
Carignano: grilled ventresca – boiled fillet of sea bream
Vermentino: gamberetti with brandy – rabbit “alla cacciatora” (hunter style)
Nuragus: “affettati” of tuna – “lardo” (pork fat) or bacon

 

 

 

SUPERVISION AND CULTURAL MEDIATION

 

 

A dedicated TEP leader in collaboration with Paola, Secondo, Nicolo, Andrea and Dino will organise, monitor, and control the evolution of the entire path, with plenty of behind curtain support. Two tutors will join the group of four to ten participants, and accompany them all along the TEP, providing conversation in English, information, clarification, relation, contact and understanding with natives, support on all matters including travel, as well movie recording for post-factum appraisal and enjoyment.  

 

 

 

HOSPITALITY AND RESTORATION IN THE ‘PAIZE’

 

 

Participants will be hosted in double rooms in four star Hotel ‘Nichotel’ (www.nichotel.it) during the week. Single rooms are available with 105 € supplement, to capability. Light lunches and full dinners – featuring interesting fish and vegetables dishes – will be served at prime restaurants in Carloforte. These meals are opportunities to appreciate flavours and perfumes of the traditional cuisine of Carloforte.

 

 

 

TRAVEL

 

 

Come on Sunday to Cagliari, the airport of Elmas, the harbour, the train station: a shuttle bus will bring you to Carloforte. Else, be already in Carloforte. Leaving to Cagliari on the next Sunday will be arranged according to need. Transportation from/to other airports in Sardinia, e.g., Alghero, can be arranged at cost, please enquire.
 
 
TEP runs from Sunday to Sunday in September and October 2009, starting on Sunday September 6th, 2009; in May and June 2010, starting on Sunday May 9th, 2010; in September and October 2010, starting on Sunday September 5th, 2010.

 

 

PRICE AND CONDITIONS

Price per participant of COSY LOCAL COOKING AND WINE TASTING TEP is 2.000,00 €, all included, except cost of flight. Reservations are granted to availability. A down payment of 30% is due at reservation. Full payment is due 14 days prior to TEP start. Down payments are non refundable in case of cancellation by reserved participants.
Ten participants only are accepted as maximum each week. Also, a minimum number of reservations, four, is required for the TEP to be confirmed for any particular week. In the case that this minimum number is not reached, communication will be given within 21 days prior to TEP start to reserved participants, and all dawn payments will be entirely refunded, including those for eventually cancelled reservations.

 

 

 

 

 
Please note that TEP weeks come in two versions of engagement, havingt different prices:
- a full experience week offer (4 cuisine labs, 4 wine testing session), all planned and all included, at a price of 2000,00 € (as described above)
- a lighter experience week offer (3 cuisine labs, 3 wine tasting sessions), leaving some free time, and including only basic services (thematic eperience services, hotel, transport from and to airport), and leaving out other assets (tutors for cultural mediation), at a strongly reduced price of 779,00 €, with the possibility on request of adding on at fixed prices additional optional services – not included in the price just indicated -, tailored to personal choices and taste (dinners and lunches in quality restaurants, or half board in hotel for non lab days,  transport within the island). Conditions for reservation and payment same as above.


PROGRAMME of the cosy Tabarkino cooking school and WINE TESTING workshop TEP by Chefs Nicolo, Paola, Andrea and Secondo, AND SOMMELLIER DINO

 

 

 

Sunday:
your flight lands in Cagliari, Sardinia, a mini bus takes you from the airport to Carloforte, via road and Ferryboat, to join a welcome reception at your four starts Hotel ‘Nichotel’ where you will enjoy a Welcome cocktail at 18:00, with your TEP (Thematic Experiential Path) leader and tutors as company, and a Dinner at 20:30 at top Restaurant in ‘paize’ Chez Nicolo Pomata at ‘Nico Bistrot’, if you arrive at Carloforte in time.

Monday:
9:30 Meeting in ‘paize’, visiting the old town with a tourist guide. 12:00 Lightweight lunch in ‘paize’ at Trattoria "035". 15:00 Visit to the beaches. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s First wine tasting session at ”Osteria della Tonnara”. 20:00 Dinner at the sea side in front of the harbor at top Restaurant Chez Andrea and Maddalene at “Osteria della Tonnara”.

 

 

 

Tuesday:
9:30 Meeting in ‘paize’. Purchases at the market for the laboratory "cascà" with Chef Paola Vitiello. 12:00 Light lunch at the sea side in front of heh harbor at top Restaurant Chez Mario at ‘Belalugosi’. 15:30 Start of "cascà" laboratory at top Restaurant Chez Paola at ‘1° Maggio ‘. 20:00 Dinner at Restaurant ‘1* Maggio’. 

Wednesday ‘:
9:30 Meeting in ‘paize’. Purchases at the market for the laboratory "pasta al pesto" with Chef Nicolo Pomata. 12:00 Lightweight lunch in ‘paize’ at ‘la Galaia’inn. 15:30 Start laboratory "pasta al pesto" at top restaurant Chez Nicolo Pomata at ‘Nico Bistrot’. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Second wine tasting session at Hotel ‘le Terrazze. 20:00 Dinner at Restaurant ‘Nico Bistrot’.

Thursday ‘:
9:30 Meeting in ‘paize’. Purchases at the market for the laboratory "tonno alla carlofortina" with Chef Andrea Rosso. 12:00 Lightweight lunch at Trattoria ‘Fraganà’. 15:30 Start laboratory "tonno alla carlofortina ‘at the top Restaurant’ Osteria della Tonnara ‘. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Third wine tasting session at Hot

el ‘le Terrazze’. 20:00 Dinner at Restaurant ‘Osteria della Tonnara’.

Friday ‘:
Free morning. 12:00 Lightweight lunch at Restaurant ‘Osteria della Tonnara’. 16:00 Visit to the villagge and around the island. 18:30 Sommelier Dino’s Fourth wine tasting session at Restaurant ‘Belalugosi’ 20:00 Dinner at Restaurant ‘Belalugosi’.

Saturday: 9:30 Meeting in ‘paize’. Purchases at the market for the laboratory "tonno salato" with Chef Secondo Borghero. 12:00 Lightweight lunch in ‘paize’ at Trattoria ‘Ciappelletta’. 15:30 Laboratory “tonno salato”  at top Restaurant Chez Secondo Borghero at  ‘Tonno di Corsa’. 20:00 Dinner at Restaurant ‘Tonno di Corsa’.

Sunday:
Morning, Preparations for departure, leaving to airport

 

 

 

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