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QUALITY AND AUTHENTICITY: Six fishing outingd in six calm & friendly days


‘Fishing tourism’ is the legal wording in Italy (‘pesca turismo’) of the tourist experience described here, and of the licensing from the harbor (‘capitaneria di porto’), also taken up by institutions which issue the authorization to practice it. In fishing tourism, a vessel registered with the rankings goes to sea to lay the fishing net and, in addition to carrying out this activity with his crew, it offers tourists an unusual day of learning knowledge centered on fishing: an activity regulated by law. In fishing tourism, a group of people is accepted onboard, they are given an explanation of the directions of the wind, of the actual weather conditions that allow to sail near the coast only, or not, while the boat takes off and goes on the spot where the fishermen have positioned the nets. Normally, if you go during one and the same day, the nets are cast on the previous day. Participants watch the operation of engine and rudder, making the stop in the selected place, they are provided with waxed cloth to pull the nets onboard, they bring onboard the nets. They pull out the fish from the net, catalogue it, and take pictures of the fish hey are all happy they have caught. Once the nets are stowed and the fish arranged, we move the boat away from the open wind, we anchor and start to clean the fish, and to cook and eat.

At Carloforte you can experience fishing tourism on the boat of Attilio the father, larger and with a kitchen on board, or on that of Cristina and Alessandro, a tiny boat, used for fishing techniques  other than the ones of Attilio the father. This one is a small boat without kitchen, primarily dedicated to the fishing by boulter, described below. Currently in the week of the FISHING TOURISM TEP the boat of Cristina and Alessandroo, the "S. Antonio" is most often used. Since we have a course of one week, we can complete the experience by going out to cast the nets one day, and return and recover the nets the next day. What’s more, along the week we can do more fishing outings with different fishing techniques. And also offer a non fishing day, a day of sailing on the boat “Ruggero II”. An incredible ancient boat, historical, crazy, of rest. And we will also fish with the rod from the rocks at sea.

The day of fishing tourism in our thematic experiential path FISHING TOURISM TEP is partly an alternative to the typical, standard tourism fishing day, described above. It is different because, being at Carloforte, it is deliberately steeped in the culture and tradition of the place. The day is of course dependent upon the weather, and if it is not appropriate for fishing activities, it will be organized with ground activities together with the local fishing craftsmen. It will be spent for example in a warehouse of fishermen, to show participants how to build a fishing net, as well as how the net is maintained.

The “S. Antonio” is one of the few fishing boats still in operation built by the Islander shipwrights, and exactly by "Stefanin" in the yard which currently has its headquarters “Marine Siffredi", next to the headquarters of the Navy League, on design by expert ‘stazzatore’ Carlofortino Pino Damele. The boat measures 15 meters in length and approximately 4 in width, is equipped with two engines (87 hp the main, and 80 hp the auxiliary). The shell is entirely of 4 cm thick oak as it was used traditionally in the golden age of the Carlofortina shipbuilding, that did not skimp on materials in order to achieve robust boats, suited to fishing but occasionally also to cargo. Built in 1967, the boat during its history has played mainly the fishing of lobster, and of coral until permitted, and for some years it has worked with the "Isola Piana" ‘Tonnara’ (tuna trap).  
In the seventies it has made even passenger service to Portoscuso as a substitute for one of the damaged ferryboats. The owners have chosen not to change the rather "Spartan" characteristics of the boat, that, having the deck practically free of objects and little cabin part, can have a large space in direct contact with the sea, and a 360-degree landscape view.


The crew is composed by Alessandro (43 years) and Cristina (44 years), husband and wife, and occasionally by their daughter Giulia (15 years). The family, originally of Liguria, where they owned several types of public shops (bar, ice cream, food), moved to Carlofbrte in 2001 after a decade of attendance of the island during holidays and has begun fishing, which has always been an amateurish passion of Alssandro.  Both Alessandro and Cristina have obtained a degree of "tour operator" at the Professional Reception Institute at Alassio in Liguria, where they studied English, French and German. And, for the work they carried out earlier, are accustomed to dealing with the public.

(photos by

It is the best known among the gill nets and it is formed by three overlapping pieces of net, the same two files armed with cork or lead, with different ratio of fitting. The two external pieces are identical, their mesh formed by very large files are armed on with an armament ratio rather high (0.6 – 0.7), while the intermediate piece as a small mesh and armament ratio. This allows a plethora of net of the small-meshed net. The fish then meeting the net on his way and trying to overcome it, from whatever direction, passes quite easily over the large mesh of the external piece (the large mesh, or ‘maglione’) and it presses on the small meshed net, that being oversized makes up an overflowing bag enclosed by the large mesh of the third piece of net. In this bag the fish remains envelopped with no possibility of escape, and from here it will be taken out by the fisherman when pulling out the net. The ‘Tremaglia’ is usually dropped on the sea bottom to catch precious fish species. Mesh and ‘maglione’ as the ratio of rigging on the files vary from area to area and from one fisherman to another. This means that generally the Tremaglia, as after all, almost all fishing gear, is armed directly by the fisherman using it to fish, when caught in the interval between a fishing outing and the other for bad sea.



The pots are small traps that are pulled out out every time you draw the fish, and dropped back or not on the same spot depending on the desire of the fisherman. The traps are usually triggered: the choice of the bait (‘esca’) has its importance in professional fishing. The bait must be attractive to attract the fish, but at the same time should cost little money. As a consequence, also the astuce, the experience, the spirit of observation are essential. Not always the bait is a choice between fish food, just think of the laurel leaves used to attract squid. The pots may be constructed of wicker, with a net mounted on a rigid frame made of wood and iron, and can be taken apart, composable. Today is also constructed of plastic in series. The mouths of entry are usually made by hand, shaped like a funnel or network or wire. Fishing pots are generally carried out by fishermen with a small oars boat, or with a small motor. If however you want to move enough off the coast, possibly in non trainable depths, but rich in fish, you need a better equipped vessel. In this case, the pots are not dropped one by one, but all united to a rope called the mother or the beam, at a convenient distance, as for the line (’palangaro’). Of course in this case, the hauling is no longer manual, but through winch.


The longline consists of a very large set of hooks linked together. On a cable (may be formed by a twisted wire or rope, or even woven, by a monofilament, or even by a small steel wire rope) called beam or mother of the line; at regular intervals are fitted the hooks, with lengths of wire called snoods. The distance between a hook and another is usually just above twice the length of the armrests. The long lines may be dropped near to the bottom and anchored here (bottom set) for catching bottom fish, or may be dropped at midwater or surface for the capture of large pelagic fish (tuna and swordfish). In the latter case they are left adrift at the mercy of the currents and winds. In professional fishing, for a catch rewarding of labor are necessary very many hooks; then a number of hook baskets are cast. The basket is in practice the unit of measure of the line. The recovery is manual, and it is long, arduous and dangerous. Recently, instruments have been introduced to reduce the effort and time to work with a given line length, so that you can set more hooks, and then you can have a higher return. You have tools for automatic setting of the baits while casting continuously, and tools that allow the more or less automatic recovery (long lines hauler). 
In some areas, longline fishing gives a satisfactory outcome, to make the fisheries enterprise live and prosper. 
In others, especially those where there is presence of other competing types of fishing, the yield is low. In general, however, the longline fishery is a fishery that is carried out with limited energy consumption and it is very respectful of the resources that are being used. It is a highly selective fishing method indeed.



Fishing tourism with the 15 meters boat of Alessandro and Cristina provides the opportunity to experience all three types of fishing: Tremaglia, pot, longline. Here we briefly describe the different types of fishery, and the course of the fishing day, for each type of fishing.
Tremaglia: fish "surprise" (you can capture all kinds of fish and crustacean). Departure at 6.00, return at 14.00 (lunch box). 1 hours of navigation and haul the nets that the boat has cast the previous day (approximately 2 hours), proceed to the fish de-mashing, which is made directly by guests under the instruction of the crew (about 2 hours), then re cast the nets for the next day (2 hours approximately), 1 hour navigation and we return to port at 14.00 approximately; in case of a shorter time fishing operations (little fish) the day can be enriched with a swim in some cove or with ‘bolentino’ fishing . 8 hours of work

Pots (Nassa): octopus / lobster / sea bottom fish (‘mostella’ and ‘cappone’): departure at 8.00, returning at 16:00; it is a fishery that offers a relaxing day, the pots are already in fishing and are hauled, primed and re casted, we can then devote the remaining time to ‘bolentino’ fishing . This is the ideal day to offer the lunch on board moored in a nearby cove, and a swim. 8 hours of work

Longline (Palangaro): prime fish (sea bream, bream, snapper, pagar). Departure at 8.00, back at 16.00 (sack lunch). 1 hour cruising during which the bait is attached to the hooks, the guests being the the executors of the operation, the equipment is casted from the first hook, called "orsar", to the last "orsa" you count about 200 hooks, about 1 hours. Waiting for the fish to bite, you can go swimming or ‘bolentino’ fishing and have lunch. The action for the recovery of longlines and fish starts In early afternoon (about 2 hours), 1 hour of navigation, and we are in port. 8 hours of work

Two of the experience days of fishing tourism are with a sack lunch, and the third (Nassa), provides a meal with the catch, organized by the crew on board. Menu: ‘razza’ in green sauce;
carpaccio of filet of freshly caught fish, "Capunada", i.e. tomato salad, chicken, capers, "Facusse”, a type of cucumber typical of the island, "tunigna”, salted tuna; vegetables and fresh in season fruit; water and 1 / 4 bottle of wine.

Completing the week of experience two workshops, a session of morays fishing, visit at the local museum accompanied by Sacha, illustration of the use of the fishing equipment made of cork, line, hooks, line for the nets.

(photos of RuggeroII  by Francesco Calzolaio)

The lateen sailed (a vela latina), wooden ship called Ruggero II was created by the hands of master builder Giovanni Biggio in 1893. Beautiful and strong, it was designed to transport minerals from the southwest coast of Sardinia(Buggerru, Porto Flavia, Piscinas) to the Island of San Pietro where the only sheltered port of the area was to be found, that of Carloforte.
From here lead and zinc were loaded onto cargos bound for the continent. The ship remained in service until the first decades of the 1900’s. Rebaptised Buon Cuore (Good Heart), it was used for various purposes (sal transport, fishing, towing), eventually slipping into obscurity. Then, on 2000,
a young man from Carloforte, Salvatore Luxoro, found it in Olbi in a state of complete abandon and decided to restore it. Bit by bit, with the help of an old ship builders and elders of the little town, in 4 years he reconstructed that lost jewel of the local fleet, symbol of an identity that risked being lost.
The Ruggero II was officially reborn in may 2004 under the aegis of Geo-Mineralogical Historical and Environmental Park of Sardinia whch has made of it a symbol of cultural patrimony, it being the only sail boat of its kind left in the area )three others are to be found in the north of Sardinia).
It has taken part in many lateen sailing races and won the national championship in 2005.
Today the Ruggero II provides a tourist service and is used sor all official functions due to the precious historical load it carries.
 (photos of Ruggero II  by Francesco Calzolaio)

Daniela Sansone as dedicated TEP leader in collaboration with Cristina and Alessandro will organise, monitor, and control the evolution of the entire path, with plenty of behind curtain support. Two tutors will join the group of eight-ten participants,  or one tutor for five-seven ones, and accompany them all along the TEP, providing conversation in English, information, clarification, relation, contact and understanding with natives, support on all matters including travel, as well movie recording for post-factum appraisal and enjoyment.    
TEP participants will be hosted in double rooms in four star hotel ‘Nikhotel’ ( during the week. Single rooms are available with 105 € supplement, to capability.  
Light lunches and full dinners – featuring interesting fish and vegetables dishes – will be served at prime restaurants in Carloforte on non trip days: opportunities to appreciate flavours and perfumes of the traditional cuisine of Carloforte.

Come on Sunday to Cagliari, the airport of Elmas, the harbour, the train station: a shuttle bus will bring you to Carloforte. Else, be already in Carloforte. Leaving to Cagliari on the next Sunday will be arranged according to need. Transportation from/to other airports in Sardinia, e.g., Alghero, can be arranged at cost, please enquire. 

TEP runs from Sunday to Sunday in September and October 2009, starting on Sunday September 6th, 2009; in May and June 2010, starting on Sunday May 9th, 2010; in September and October 2010, starting on Sunday September 5th, 2010.

Price per participant of COSY FISHING TOURISM AND GOURMET FOOD TEP is 2.000,00 €, all included, except cost of flight. Reservations are granted to availability. A down payment of 30% is due at reservation.  
Full payment is due 14 days prior to TEP start. Down payments are non refundable in case of cancellation by reserved participants. 
Ten participants only are accepted as maximum each week. Also, a minimum number of reservations, five,  is required for the TEP to be confirmed for any particular week. In the case that this minimum number is not reached, communication will be given within 21 days prior to TEP start to reserved participants, and all dawn payments will be entirely refunded, including those for eventually cancelled reservations.
An alternative programme is available in case of bad weather.
Please note that COSY FISHING TOURISM AND GOURMET FOOD TEP weeks come in two versions of engagement, havingt different prices:
- a full experience week offer (6 fishing experience outings, and labs), all planned and all included, at a price of 2000,00 € (as described above)
- a lighter experience week offer (4 fishing experiences), leaving some free time, and including only basic services (thematic eperience services, hotel, transport from and to airport, only a few group transport within the island), and leaving out other assets (tutors for cultural mediation), at a strongly reduced price of 959,00 €, with the possibility on request of adding on at fixed prices additional optional services – not included in the price just indicated -, tailored to personal choices and taste (dinners and lunches in quality restaurants, or half board in hotel, atransport within the island). Conditions for reservation and payment same as above.

Every day of fishing must be decided depending on the weather, days not good for the fishing activity are organized on the ground, with laboratories, enriched by notes, tools and utensils; products hand made directly by participants are simple in their execution and composition, providing the historical memory of the experience, along with the diary. In case of bad weather, one morning will be devoted to visiting the village of Carloforte: visit the civic museum to view the plant of a tuna trap, 1 hour walk in the historic center dedicated to “ la Madonna dello Schiavo (Our Lady of the Slave Man: it was a figurehead of ship, that became a symbol of the story of “Tabarchini”, the original founders of Carloforte, who were coming from Tabarka, Tunisia) and walking tours in the "carruggi" (small streets), take photo of the "galaie" (balconies) and their "polene” (figureheads).
Salvatore Caputo said "SACHA", which animates the ‘ground’ activities, Class 1961, comes from a family of fishermen, graduate at the nautical institute with the title of Engineer Officer and Seaman.  For about 10 years. 1990 to 2000 was vice Rais (Head of Fisheries) to Tonnara. Since 2000, he is a professional fisherman with a wooden boat of 6 meters.

Arrival of guests at the four-star Hotel "Le Terrazze" (The Terraces). 19:00 Welcome cocktail and program presentation: the group meets with the TEP tutors, takes vision of the program of the journey, of the organizational notes, of the history of “the pot and its prey”, tasting regional or local wine. 20:30 Dinner at the Hotel restaurant.

8:00 Embarkation on the M / B S. Antonio (at the fishermen harbor) for the fishing outing "La Nassa and its prey" (8.00/16.00). Lunch on board (with the fish catch, it is hoped), break for a swim. After lunch "Bolentino" fishing, a type of fishing fun and easy, within reach of all, that makes reflect on the limits reckless harvesting, rather than just enough to eat. Equipment here includes a cork board of 20×10 cm, around 2 cm of hight, with the line wrapped around 80/90 meters, two or 3 hooks at the end. You the line at sea, and, letting the line on the index finger, you wait for the vibration to arrive, indicating the possible bite of a fish, usually a "BULÖRXU", a small fish like "Sciarra or Perch", excellent when fried. The capture of “Bolentino” fishing provides satisfaction and it brings the attention to the "enough" to eat. For this island that suggests a new tourism product, it is essential to consider as crazy an indiscriminate and uninformed harvesting from the sea: this project should help to preserve and optimize the use of resources, and to accept new rules written by the proper hands of this Community, with the help of institutions and regulations in favor of protected marine areas. 18:30 Meeting in the village, to visit the artisans that build pots in rush. 20:00 Dinner at the sea side, near the port, at the top restaurant Chez Andrea and Maaddalena, the "Osteria della Tonnara"

9:00 Meeting in the village with Sacha (fisherman and vice rais – rais is the head of the tuna catch event), in the laboratory for the building of nets for fixed posing. Waiting for the day of the fishing with the fixed nets, with the help of Sacha we walk to the old city walls through the historic center of the village. Here, each one with a nail fixed to the wall, and thread and needle for the nets, we will learn to weave a net: a portion prepared ad hoc for each guest, in a magnificent setting, "it is precisely here that the old ones used to do this work", we wove the fundamental fabric of gill nets, every visitor ending up in possession of a piece of new learning. At the end we descend in the vllage to the mythical Gisa, who prepares "Faini al taglio” (chickpea flour bread to cut): to foreigners, it is the most coveted and acceptable bread shop, for its simplicity and typicality. 12:00 Lightweight lunch  in ‘paize’ at the inn "Ciappelletta" .15:00 Embarking on M / B St. Anthony for the casting of gill nets (expected return around 18:00). 20:00 Dinner in "paize" at top restaurant Chez Nicolo Pomata "Nico Bistrot".

7:00 Embarking on M / B S. Antonio for the hauling of the gill nets (7.00/14.00). Lunch box (typical fisherman / sailor: chicken, tomato, tuna with salt, fruit, vegetables). Return expected at 14:00. 18: 00 Visit to the museum to see a model diagram of the trap nets, with comments and explanations by Sacha. 20:30 Dinner in "paize", at top restaurant Chez Secondo, at "Tonno di Corsa".

9:00 If the weather is good, tour with the historic boat "Roger II", a “bilancella” wooden boat with Lateen sail. 3 hours in the morning, arrival and lunch. Otherwise, land tour of the island. Light lunch at 12:00 in "paize" at the inn "Galaja" 15:00 Meeting with Cristina and Alessandro, laboratory for the construction of a "palangaro" (longline): Cristina and Alessandro host us in their home, for approximately 3 hours. They live in a house that lends itself to the need for space to build a "palangaro" on the ground. 18.30 at the sea edge, in front of the port, the top restaurant Chez Mario at "Belalugosi": first, a meeting with the projection of a short thematic movie, and ensuing considerations; then at 20:30 Dinner at "Belalugosi".

8:00 Embarking on M / B S. Antonio with Cristina and Alessandro for the fishing outing with "palangaro" (hunting for prime fish) 8.00/16.00, with lunch bag "of the sailor." (From the departure, it is 1 hour of navigation, during which guests put the bait on the hooks. We haul the equipment from the first hook on, there are about 200 hooks and it takes about one hour to cast them all. Waiting for the fish to bit, a swim, a snack, etc.; or again "Bolentino” fishing. 20:00 Dinner at " Nico Bistrot"

Free morning. 12:00 Light lunch at "Belalugosi". 15:00 Meeting with Sacha to fish for morays "pastura e aspetto” (pasture and wait) in Cala Fico (impressive spot near the lighthouse). This is an ancient type of fishing, easy and fun. It pasture "brumezà", that is, a mixture of chopped and smelling fish is thrown into small pools of water at the shore among the rocks, to attract moray eels and with the help of a "filaccione", an excerpt of line of 3 meters and one hook size "9": with "the waiting and two simple rules, the hunt is guaranteed. This is considered a technique to keep secret and respect, passed down through generations of Carlofortini. The operation lasts approximately 3 hours. The prey is the “Murena” (moray). 1 max 2 can then be cooked for dinner. 20:30 Dinner at restaurant "Le Terrazze"

Leave in the morning.



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